Between holidays

First part of the training

It's been more or less 3 weeks passed since I started my training plan. Hardest part is to plan my weeks, since I do want to climb with my friends but I need to keep my schedule. To make matters easier I have changed the weekly Kilter board session to a general hard bouldering. Finding a Kilter board not occupied by some very good climbers trying roof climbs is a big challenge.

The endurance sessions are brutal. Going up and down on autobelay is super exhausting. I have some 5c's and one 6a+ I can really train on. Unfortunately the setting is not the best for the purpose. The harder routes make me tired really quickly, so I can't possibly stay on the wall for a long time there. I am trying to focus more on pacing as I know the regular routes very well by now and I tend to rush the climbing.

I do the sub-max fingerboarding almost every day, not always twice. It depends on my day and how my fingers and skin are. I do the stretching at home periodically and with the warmer weather I can go for some runs too. Generally I feel stronger and I believe my technique is improving as well.


Right now we are trying a long 7A+ in Boulderbar Hauptbahnhof. It starts with a traverse on an overhang part of the wall then continues into a 6C+. The first part is not too hard but takes a lot of energy and then the second part has one move into a pinch that is hard to hold if your arms are tired. I think we are all getting really close to finishing it though.

I had five days of rest over Christmas and I did my first session at the local gym. It was busy with kids but the Kilter board was free. I managed to climb a 7A+ (proj braj on 40°) which I already finished on 30° angle. I remember feeling it impossible a couple of months back and now I could hold the pinches quite firmly.

Me on the Kilterboard cutting loose
Me on a green slab matching a sloper