The year of the 7A+

The first 7A+ boulder

The boulder starts in a cramped boxed position with a small foothold on a volume on the left and a kind of okay volume for the right foot. Both hands are on small but positive crimps. The next four handholds are basically repurposed small footholds, exactly like the one for the left foot at the start.

First move is a bump with the right hand on the side of the wall. Then left foot on the volume where the right one is, the right foot goes to the other side of the wall around the corner and try to smear against another volume.

The left hand goes up to a small sloper that can be pinched with the underside of the wall, but can't squeeze it too hard or the fingers slide down. After this, the chest has to be kept very close to the wall around the corner and catch a small hold in the middle of a hexagonal volume. Easy to loose the feet here and probably can jump it as well but I managed to hold it quite statically.

Next either go up with the left hand to another sloper foothold on the top of the hexagonal volume and get the right foot very high up to a positive foothold or go up with the foot first then follow with the left hand. On my send go a chose the first option. The photos show a previously failed attempt where I went with the second option. I think both would work.

Now we are at the hardest part. The left hand need to pull then push the body up while the right hand assists then reaches up to an in-cut, crimpy mantle. Here you have to push with the left hand and get the left foot into the hole in the middle of the hexagonal volume.

After this it's an easy reach with the left hand to a good side-pull on the corner of the wall and step across with the right foot or just toe-hook against the volume and reach for the top.


I feel like this problem went down pretty easily for me except the one move into the mantle. The left hand hold is so bad I couldn't hold it and I wasn't flexible enough to get my hip close to the wall in that position. I failed mostly at this move on my attempts. Must have tried it more than 10 times since I lost count pretty early on. This was a several week and a lot of sessions work, so I would say it's right for the grade, but maybe a bit soft.

I still have some other projects in the local gym at Seestadt that I hope to finish and I could really confirm that I managed to jump up a grade. In the meantime I continue my training plan which is in the third week now and it goes well so far.

Me on the boulder problem
Me on the boulder
Me on the boulder
Me on the boulder
Me on the boulder
Me on the boulder