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Into the sevens

Trying the sevens

I found two 7A boulder problems in Boulderbar Hannovergasse that I wanted to project.

The first one is on the outdoor wall and it's basically two moves. Just have to reach up to a crimp then step up and go for the last hold, while standing on a slopy volume and the wall pushes you out. I could grab the crimp once without falling, but then I moved a tad bit my foot and I was on the mattress again.

The second one starts with very nice moves around the edge of the wall, then probably a horrible gaston on a bad sloper, then to the top. I could manage to hold the sloper several times, but I couldn't figure out what to do with my feet. I haven't seen anyone succeeding on this one to be honest.

Then on one of the sessions I was with Christoph, we tried some 6B/+'s then a girl, Mira joined us to try to figure out these horrible problems. After an hour or so we gave up and she showed us a 7A with a jump in the middle, which she tried to do.

The boulder

The whole problem starts with a very stretched out position, left hand holding a not really great sidepull, right hand on a huge and not that bad hold, not bad foot holds, but not great if you're short. From this position there are some scenarios that we could imagine.

You move your hand up to the wall and push down to stabilise yourself, then reach for a sidepull above your left foot. Here you either hold the position or you get enough momentum to make the jump to the other side of the corner, where you land into a huge jug with one or two hands, depending on how strong your grip is (for me two hands were needed). If you hold the position with the sidepull, then you can switch foot slowly and hug the wall with both feet or gradually bumping your right hand on the wall until you're close enough to the left hand that you can make the jump.

After you have the jug, then it's one foot to the left, then push yourself to the last hold, which is good enough to hold it with left hand until you get stable to match it.

The process

For three sessions we had at least an hour on this jumpy 7A, now with Christoph and Mira in the team we did our best to figure out a way to make the jump.

So we tried this problem a lot, once I caught the jug with both hands, but got so surprised that I released it. On a session when I was alone waiting for Emi to join me I was working on it with a random guy, who managed to do it after a couple of tries, then I actually did it somehow. Then Emi got in, so she asked me to show it to her and without any issues I could do it again and again. (See pictures from the video below.)

I was really happy and confused at the same time. I was glad that I did the problem, but I felt like it is easy, since I could do it every time now.

The very next day Christoph and Mira joined me and after some attempts Christoph managed to climb it as well. Emi climbed her first 6A, so it seems like everyone gets better and stronger.

Me starting on the 7A boulder.
Me holding the second stable position.
Me in a position to jump.
Me jumping for the jug.
Me reaching for the last hold.
Me on the top of the problem.